The Dashing Dandy


Keep your cuff, sock and shoe in check

(from left to right)

New gommini 122 driver in tan suede with ‘My Colors’ hand-braided leather tie $495

‘Andre’ $660. PAUL SMITH socks $40 from NEIMAN MARCUS. Tassels give these classic loafers a more dressy feel, however, they can also be worn casual, and with or without socks.

Brown leather woven dress shoe $450 and PAUL SMITH striped socks $30 from NEIMAN MARCUS

‘Golf’ derby $975 from LEATHER SOUL. A comfortable and stylish everyday shoe that looks great with rolled-up denim or chinos.

‘Prom,’ price upon request. PAUL SMITH gray socks $35 from NEIMAN MARCUS. This velvet loafer is a great evening shoe that can be dressed down with denim pants or dressed up with a suit.

Tourmaline indigo blu snakeskin leather shoe $1,100. PAUL SMITH blue socks $40 from NEIMAN MARCUS. This sleek statement shoe is a great way to add a touch of color to your look, especially with a classic suit.

In the Boardroom

It’s all about the fit …

When it comes to men’s dress shirts, it’s the minor details that make all the difference. From the style of the collar to the taper of the shirt and how you wear it, it’s not just a personal preference-but what works with your body type and face shape.

For someone with a narrow, pointed chin and in need of a wide, spread collar, check out Bottega Veneta’s fall/winter dress shirts such as the one featured in our men’s fashion spread (Page 92). If your face is more round and you need a narrow point collar (which isn’t as common), you’ll find one in Yves Saint Laurent’s fall ready-to-wear collection or from Neiman Marcus’ selection of custom shirts by Ike Behar (pictured in blue below).

By framing your head in something with the opposite linear shape, it will cast your face properly and complement your look. The type of collar also should coordinate with the knot of your necktie-larger knots such as the Windsor for a spread collar, and smaller knots like the Four-in-hand for a narrow collar.

The most standard shirt is one with a straight collar (such as the one pictured here by Tom Ford, available at Neiman Marcus) and works great for just about any face shape.

“It is a safe choice for the business environment with a suit and a tie, and may be dressed down by rolling up the sleeves with the top shirt button undone, and just one or two buttons but no more,” adds Mokai Chang, a freelance fashion coordinator who works with many of the luxury stores in Hawai’i.

Things can get interesting when designers opt to add a creative touch to their collars (such as this contrasting style by Tom Ford). “It is unconventional yet refined,” adds Chang.

As for how you wear your shirt, fit is most important. In general, a regular men’s shirt is sized to a guy who stands 5 feet 8 inches to 5 feet 11 inches in height. Fortunately for men who are taller, some designers such as Ermenegildo Zegna, Canali and Nordstrom offer “big and tall” styles and stores such as Neiman Marcus and Nordstrom have made-to-measure options. If you are shorter, you most likely will need to have your shirts and sleeves altered for a proper fit, or have shirts cutom-made.

If you’ve experienced any physical changes with your body recently, you may want to update your measurements to ensure the right shirt size-measure around the base of your neck; and then with your elbow bent, measure from the middle of your back right below the neck, across the shoulders and elbow to the wrist for your sleeve length.

If you’re wearing a jacket, there should be one-half inch of cuff showing under your jacket sleeve, and if wearing a necktie, the bottom tip of the tie should meet the top edge of your belt.

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