• photo by Mark Arbeit
• Hopkins’ bold use of color—as well as the weight he puts on his subjects’ eyes—is a defining cue in his work. Seen here: Dream Cat. photo courtesy Higgins Harte International Galleries
• photo courtesy Higgins Harte International Galleries
• photos by Mark Arbeit
• Hopkins and wife Stella both conversed freely with enthusiasts of his work, as well as our editor.
• Nirvana. photo courtesy Higgins Harte International Galleries
• Anthony Hopkins

SEATED ON A FADED COUCH in the Royal Hawaiian’s Monarch Room-opposite screen legend Anthony Hopkins-it is impossible to not expect the wave of intimidation that is coursing through my veins. Mistake not-I’ve interviewed more than a fair share of A-listers. Yet I’ve made no secret of my stance, that is, the majority of actors I’ve interviewed are blessed with little more than three things: impeccable DNA, great luck and a few instances of nepotism. Let the records show: The gentleman seated across from me (it isn’t helping the nerves that we’re actually seated on a stage, for heaven’s sake) has never rested his laurels on any of those attributes.

As I avert my eyes to the colorful paintings that span the horizon just over his shoulders, hoping that he-and his piercing blue eyes (which are chiseling away at any semblance of orderly questions I have)-doesn’t scoff at their simplicity before I have a chance to blurt them out.

Or, worse yet, he eats my brain as I’m talking (which, at least, would give me something to talk with Ray Liotta about).

Alas, none of this is warranted (although it felt good to get the obligatory Hannibal reference aired early in this article). Sir Anthony Hopkins is not only a gentleman (he insisted on introducing himself to our entire creative team prior to this photo shoot and interview) and a scholar (Academy Award-winner, Fellow of the British Academy of Film and Television Arts, so on), but he’s a pleasure to converse with. He is genuine and straight-shooting, yet available to digress into story. However, it is his impeccable knack for always returning full circle to a point or line of questioning that stunned me. After all, he’s an actor. And without a script, well, for many, sticking to what’s being asked can be a tall order. Where most flap incessantly on self-serving (and brand-building) statements, Sir Philip Anthony Hopkins is eager to delve into the root of everything I ask.

Today, we’re here entirely to talk about Hopkins’ foray most of which has taken place in the last decade-into his painting. In short summary: Having excelled at drawing and painting during grade school in his native Wales, it wasn’t long before Hopkins realized that the rigid nature of schooling in Britain in the 1940s wasn’t his cup of tea. After a chance encounter at age 15 with Welsh compatriot Richard Burton, Hopkins enrolled in the Royal Welsh College of Music & Drama followed by the Royal Academy of Dramatic Art in London. As his stage-then television, followed by film career exploded, painting took a back seat.

Cut to the current century. Shortly after meeting his current wife-an elegant, Colombian-born antiquities dealer named Stella Arroyave-she began noticing drawings in the blank pages of his scripts (which he reads upward of 200 times prior to executing a role).

“She said, ‘You know, this is really something.’ When we got married, she wanted me to dig into this,” Hopkins shares.

Glenn Harte, co-owner of the Hawai’i-based Higgins Harte International Galleries, which retains exclusive rights to show and sell Hopkins’ work, enjoys re-telling the manner in which he was introduced to it. Not unfamiliar with already-famous clients, Harte counts Red Skelton, Tony Curtis, Burt Young and the wildly prolific Anthony Quinn among the stable of artists whose work he represents.

“I could tell that he was insecure about his art. He didn’t know if it was good enough,” Harte says, referring to their initial meeting on Maui, which preceded a visit to Hopkins’ Malibu home and studio. “It was great. Not like anything I’d seen before.

“An extremely high percentage of artists do work that imitates either what they’ve seen before or have been taught to do. Not a lot of it, unfortunately, is blazing new paths. He was clearly taking a new road, and most importantly, was so casual about it,” Harte continued.

This seems like a fortuitous time to answer the question that invariably has crept into most of your heads: Why does he need to paint? Is he trying to rub our noses in his highly accomplished (and proverbially gilded) dirt?

Far from it-and he will be the first to share it.

“He was sensitive to the fact that most people’s impression is that these actors are full of themselves,” says Harte, who adds that museums have offered to house his collection-something Hopkins turned down, as he didn’t deem it “appropriate.”

Throughout our conversation, the reasons for his twodimensional expression became a clear, trifold approach. First, there’s the notion that any actor plays a small part in an otherwise huge production. No matter the film, there are dozens upon dozens of writers, producers, directors and so on, each of whom contributes their vision to what the rest of us see onscreen. This leaves very little wiggle room for actors-regardless of stature-to express their creativity. Conversely, when faced with a blank canvas in a quiet room all by one’s lonesome, the artist has complete control over every aspect of what ends up on said canvas.

Second, the act of painting (or drawing) allows Hopkins to release years-often decades-of bottled-up memories and emotions that were either overlooked, misguided or stowed away. He’s made no secret of his penchant for excess in his early years. Yet one subject we covered-the hauntingly intense eyes in his “Steelworkers” painting-reveals this processes.

“That’s my grandfather. He used to work in steel. He always wore a cap. He had a work mate called Smiley. And I always remember it, they were happy times,” Hopkins pauses, reflects. “But one day he came back very upset. Smiley had died of a heart attack at work and my grandfather was there. It stuck with me. Long time ago… almost 70 years.”

Third, Hopkins draws parallels to a few events in his life-arriving in America (California, particularly), a road trip he took across the U.S. and the meeting of his wifeas-muse, Stella-all as origins for his gravitational pull to vibrant, almost alarming use of color.

“I came from a very gray country, Wales. And yet I was drawn to color. So when I spent some time in New Mexico [20 years ago], I fell in love with the colors. With peoples’ clothes. And I had been to Hawai’i. So this is where all this color-” he gracefully gestures to the works that surround us on stage “-comes from. I just sorta jumped into it.”

Beginning with inks on photographic paper followed by acrylics, he indeed “jumped into it.” He began (around 2003) painting every chance he got. At the same time, he invigorated another boyhood passion-playing the piano.

“I learned to read music as a boy, but I gave that up when I became an actor. I was always improvising whenever I sat down at the piano, picking up things. It’s all come to fruition in the last few years,” he says.

A slight understatement, indeed. His self-proclaimed “fiddling around” led to the composition of a Viennese waltz with multiple movements, that is now performed across the globe by symphonies that include Britain’s City of Birmingham Symphony Orchestra as well as the Dallas Symphony Orchestra.

When asked whether the waltz, too, harkens back to his past, the 73-year-old lights up.

“Yes, the waltz is very reminiscent of my childhood. In fact… I’ve been listening to a lot of [composer and performance artist] Philip Glass, as well as John Adams and Charles Ives, who wrote in the ’20s. He [Ives] writes two pieces of music in two different keys and then he merges them together-a cacophony of sound. So…” he continues, smiling. “My grandfather took me to Bethany Square when I was 5. There was a brass band coming up the street, with the drums and everything-I was actually scared. Then, just behind Bethany Chapel, another band was playing, so you could hear the sounds crossing over one another-a jumble of noise. And I remember that sound. And now the music has started coming out.”

Succinctly, memories began leaping onto canvas as well.

“I just go in and see what happens. Two weeks ago, I painted an elephant. It’s here. Someone bought it,” Hopkins turns to look for the painting. “It is also from childhood, from the first circus my grandfather took me to. I was in awe [of the elephants]. But I felt sorry for them, with the hats and the woman sitting on their heads. This is that elephant.”

With hesitation I decide to inquire about some comments I had seen him make in videos from past interviews. In particular, I was curious about his statements that key on a fixture with chaos and finality, of which he had spoken with a shocking amount of levity.

“I was on Maui the other night and I thought, in color and in nature, there is beauty all over the world-yet it all passes. Life is beautiful, but it is fast.

“I’m not a religious person,” Hopkins quips, noting the weightiness of his previous statement. “I don’t think I believe in anything. I don’t know what I believe. There are quantum levels of experience, but I don’t know what I believe… But we all live in chaos. And madness. Dreams are chaos. Our minds are chaos. People don’t understand it-we don’t need to understand it.

“A great friend of mine, Stan Winston, who used to work with Spielberg-Jurassic Park-had a great eye for art. He said that if you practice too much, focus too hard on technique, you lose something. So I figured the same was true with my painting. And piano playing too. I try not to examine everything. What’s the worst that could happen? Someone is going to put me in jail?”

Navigating the ballroom where the majority of wall space is tiled with Hopkins’ works, this new perspective sheds a warmer light on his array of styles that leap off the canvases. Prior to speaking with him, the works were almost dizzying. There are various examples that feature characters whose eyes intimidate. Haunting yet serene images like “Nirvana” are a study in a single hue, yet elicit the need for a second, more thorough stare. “Aloha Nui Loa” is a graceful dance of contrasting colors that captures the movement of his subject. And, there are his fluid landscape paintings that evoke a minimalist feel while delicately drawing the viewer closer in.

Insightful prose, printed on little cards, accompanies many of the paintings. The words, I learn in a follow-up conversation with Hopkins, are collaborative efforts with a young painter Hopkins mentors, named Aaron Tucker. Unlike most artists, who silently ask the viewer to attach their own “meaning” to the image, Hopkins (and Tucker) has chosen precise words, tenses and manners of phrasing to pull you across the landscape of the canvas. This shouldn’t come as a surprise; Hopkins is distantly related to the Nobel-awarded poet William Butler Yeats.

As an orchestral quintet pulls notes from their stringed instruments, and attendees (each of whom has already purchased one of Hopkins prints or originals, which range from $1,100 to $150,000) seem more eager to meet the affection of their evening, we press further into his musical foray.

A three-part piece he wrote recently, titled 1946, will be performed at select venues around the world.

“The first movement is the circus. The one I was telling you about, with my grandfather,” he shares. “The second movement is called Bracken Road, which is a very modern piece of jazz, named after a street in Margam [the Welsh town where he grew up]. Whenever I hear this certain piece of music, I always think of that corner, on that road. The last movement is called The Plaza. It brings to mind the old MGM musical with Carmen Miranda, Harry James.”

When I ask if he will perform it, his answer is concise, and delivered with a smirk.

“I won’t perform it, as I’m not a concert pianist. I can write ‘em,” cue dramatic pause, for the last time today. “Remember, my technique is not that good.”

At this, I cannot help but disagree, Sir.

• Scenes from around Andis Wines' Amador County winery. Photo courtesy Andis Wines
• Scenes from around Andis Wines' Amador County winery. Photo courtesy Andis Wines
• Scenes from around Andis Wines' Amador County winery. Photo courtesy Andis Wines
• Andis Wines owner and founder, Andy Friedlander and wife Janis Akuna. Photo courtesy Andis Wines
• Photo courtesy Andis Wines Daniel D'Agostini
• Friedlander prefers Amador County's familial feel to Napa's commercial nature.

The Mind Behind Andis Winery

By Roberto Viernes, Master Sommelier

I am always excited to taste a new wine. That feeling of adventure, potential, anticipation and possible discovery is exhilarating. The potential of finding a treasure-something great-makes me anxious, especially if I taste the wine for the first time together with the owner of the winery. Seated with Andy Friedlander, owner and founder of Andis Wines, was no exception.

Friedlander and his wife Janis Akuna are focused on “doing things that make us different,” he immediately shares. One big difference (in the winemaking world) is that Friedlander is a kama’aina. He has lived and worked in Hawai’i for decades. His decision to establish a winery in Amador County, Calif., would have made others uneasy. Yet Friedlander’s success in commercial real estate came at capable hands well-versed in location and value. (He in fact has lived there part time for the last 10 years.) But why make wine in Amador County instead of Napa, I pondered?

“Napa has changed. It’s like Hollywood, or Las Vegas-corporate,” Friedlander bemoans, adding that the commercial, almost theme- park nature there wasn’t the farming community that he had long envisioned for his own winery.

“In Amador County, you still see a tractor rolling up the main street. It’s still country,” he adds. Yet the most significant statement he makes was thus: In Amador he tastes wine with families, not brands. Amen.

The nonexistent charging of fees for tastings, plus the sense of community over competition made it more convivial than Napa Valley for Friedlander. The kicker was he noticed multiple Napa wineries adding Amador fruit to their own signature wines to give them more guts (Favia, Four Vines and Rosenblum are some examples).

Of course, any old site wouldn’t do for someone with as refined a palate as Friedlander. He began by purchasing a 25-acre parcel replete with old vine Zinfandel across a rolling hill with the perfect combination of exposure, clay and sandy loam. In the winery, he has one of the few sorting tables in Amador County where only the best fruit is allowed to pass the rigorous 12-person team.

Since it’s no secret that great wines need a great wine-maker, Friedlander hired Mark McKenna to helm the operation followed by Marco Capelli (of Capelli Ranch and formerly of Swanson) as “an insurance policy.”

Citing Rosenblum Zinfandel and Mollydooker Shiraz as some of his favorites, Friedlander loves big and bold wines. Breaking conformity yet again, he first pours me a glass of his 2010 Andis Bill Dillian Vineyard Semillon. This wonderfully aromatic wine (with old vine grapes from fifth-generation farmers the Dillian family, whom Friedlander calls “inspiring”) shows hints of mineral with fresh white and yellow fruits, laced with a geranium-like floral component. It is zesty and has a note of sweetness that makes it an awesome pair with Hawaii Regional Cuisine. We shared some sautéed prawns with herbs, which proved a heavenly pairing.

With thunderous occasion Friedlander unveils his 2008 Andis Zinfandel, a juicy beast with lavender, anise, jam, flowers, geranium and a thick, coating texture. It is big but not over-the-top. He follows it up with what he admits could be a signature wine: the 2008 Andis Reserve Petite Syrah. My palate was promptly inundated with aromas and flavors of sweet currants, blackberries, plums and-a reoccurring theme-this hint of flowers. Drank alongside a perfectly done steak, I ask about said floral component.

“That’s Amador County,” he succinctly retorts.

Friedlander also produces Primitivo, Cabernet Franc, Cabernet Sauvignon and Barbera. As these wines are only in their second vintages at Andis, you can taste the awesome potential that eminates from both the area, as well as Andis. Clearly, this is something that Friedlander has a vision for; one that he’s intent on fulfilling.

www.andiswines.com

• Ribs are the obvious smoking option, but more and more people are branching out and adding that distinctive flavor to other meats such as fish.
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• Smokers come in all sizes and types, like this electric smoker by Cookshack.
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A Lesson in the Backyard Arts

IF YOU CAN EAT IT, you can smoke it. Pair the profound interest in summer backyard barbecues with a massive rise in interest by everyday Joes looking for new culinary penchant, and you have a recipe for learning to smoke your own meats. What was originally a method of preserving proteins performed only by trained smokehouse professionals is now the hot weekday water cooler banter. The process of flavoring meat, fish and veggies with smoke from burning natural material (woods like hickory, mesquite or apple trees) has become an art form with truly delectable results.

Here in Hawai’i, kiawe wood is preferred; but the use of local fruit trees as fuel for your smoking adventures-like guava, which adds a blackened color to meats-are all the buzz in smoky circles as of late.

In addition to the wide variety of woods you can experiment with, there are also different methods of execution. Hot smoking puts the heat source close to the meat, which lends to faster cooking but requires a keen eye. Cold smoking replaces intense heat for the slow and steady, and takes fine- tuning-but yields dramatic results.

Expert-in-the-field Henry Holthaus, former owner of Kiawe Cue in the ’80s and ’90s (and current food safety professor at the Culinary Arts College on O’ahu) has been experimenting and perfecting his own smoking style for years. He’s gone well beyond the usual beef, pork and chicken options.

“You can smoke just about anything,” Holthaus says. “Here, in Hawaii, the smoked tako (octopus) is a very good pupu-style dish. I’ve also experimented a bit with smoked oysters. That’s an amazing dish with plump and smoky flavors. Actually, it tastes very different from the canned version but you have to really love oysters.”

Over at Kaimuki’s soul food hot spot, Soul, award-winning chef Sean Priester enjoys smoking his own salmon that he rolls out exclusively during Sunday brunch, beneath his fluffy Eggs Benedict. What formerly had been a mere hobby, he’s just now making his first real foray into smoking, having recently been asked to cook heaps of smoked brisket for a friend’s Texas wedding.

“Smoking has a complexity of favors that I like,” he says. “So it gives me an opportunity to balance the boldness of the marinade with the protein.”

Seasoning options including dry rubs or marinades for beef and pork, and brines used mostly in poultry. While purists may snicker, some try cheating the process by adding liquid smoke prior to roasting the bird. While effective, it doesn’t offer the thrill-or the range of flavors-you can attain with a long, cold smoke.

For the weekend “foodie” warrior, there are numerous accoutrement that range from charcoal, water and propane fired smokers. In Honolulu, POP Marine has a full line of Bradley electrical and propane smokers ranging from $475 and up, as well as various woods and all the tools you’ll need. Holthaus coyly recommends investing $1,000 in an electrical commercial smoker for home use (you can order one online). As he describes it, “Electrical is the lazy man’s way of smoking meats.”

If you’re just starting your foray into smoking, Holthaus does have one firm recommendation: “Make sure that whatever it is you’re doing that you take detailed notes. That way, you can improve on your results as you go. And I’d also recommend on doing small quantities so if you make a mistake it’s not a total loss. It’s kind of a trial-and-error process, smoke to taste.”

No matter which way you cook, the important thing is to make sure it’s fun and enjoyable. Happy smoking!

Simple Rubs for Ribs:

Beef Rib Rub: (Use two tablespoons per rack.)

2 parts fresh ground black pepper
2 parts chili powder (your favorite blend)
1 part ground Hawaiian salt

Pork Rib Rub: (Use two tablespoons per rack.)

4 parts chili powder (your favorite blend)
2 parts paprika (Pennzies has several varieties; we prefer the Smoked Hungarian)
1 part ground Hawaiian salt
Sprinkle evenly over the top of the rack and refrigerate overnight.

Smoked Flavored Brine: (Use for turkey, chicken and other poultry.)
Original recipe: Joel Schaeffer, modified by Henry Holthaus

Ingredients (for a turkey):

2 gal. water
12 oz. Hawaiian salt
1 lb. sugar or honey
10 cloves garlic, crushed
4 oz. ginger root, crushed
3 tablespoons liquid smoke
2 ea bay leaves, broken
5 ea black peppercorns

Preparation:
1. Combine all ingredients. Bring to a boil while stirring to dissolve salt and sugar.
2. Simmer for 10 minutes.
3. Chill overnight. (Do not immerse the turkey in hot brine!)
4. Immerse the turkey in the brine and refrigerate for at least one day, but two days is best. The original recipe calls for straining the brine before immersion, but I prefer leaving all of the ingredients in. It’s also
acceptable to immerse the turkey frozen and it will thaw and marinate at the same time. This, however, will take two days.
5. Thoroughly drain and roast as usual.
6. Discard used brine.

For chicken, divide the recipe in half.

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• Preserved lemon Gremolata will dress up nearly any savory dish.
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• Grilled fresh prawns can replace the sardines in this recipe.
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Life is an orchard where the seasons stroll.
-Adonis, from “To The Poem”

By Nani Steele | Photography By Sarah Remington

There’s someThing magical abouT waking aT dawn’s firsT lighT, the sounds of birds calling and morning’s delicate echoes, pinging through a house still slumbering to the rhythms of sleep. This magical time is when I tend to my courtyard herb garden. The rose geranium reminds me of my grandmother, as I snip verbena and sweet mint for evening tea, or feed the coffee grounds to the fabled lemon tree-a gift I gave myself one winter a few years ago-a reminder of home, of land I love and sometimes long for. Mornings like this are like stealing time with a hopeful lover on a sunny day, when the course of your life lands you exactly where you want it to be, and all that may seem wrong turns suddenly right, nothing existing except each other.

It’s in these hours, too, when memories unfold without regret, perhaps more gently than in the heat of the day, when the world around you wakes to its own occasion, leaving you at times feeling helpless and faint in its harried wake. Time and orchards have a way of bridging such stories, as they shout promises from the rooftops and tree branches when you least expect it.

On mornings like this, I’m reminded of how far I’ve come (or gone-which is it, I sometimes have to ask) from country living to the surreal waters of the Pacific and coastal ports at large. There were times teeming with spiny lobsters carried in baskets from the harbor by women in colorful sarongs. But today, in an urban jungle, my humble abode on a tree-lined street crammed with potted plants, it is the lavender and a Japanese plum that bloom as if to mimic my own impatience for what’s to come. Both my almost fully grown children and a cat gather around a tarnished, metal table at all hours of the day, eat lime-scented shrimp and fruit- filled tarts on warm evenings with friends, and savor favorite reminisces from other distant shores.

I’m struck by what lingers in memory’s garden as I pinch back the blushing sage and brush the felled rose petals under the fence, flashbacks of an orchard kind of life. Those with a profound effect include the thriving orchards on the island of Bequia, a whaling port in the Grenadines, exploding with exotic scents like juicy grapefruit with thick, golden skins and the sweetest oranges I’ve ever had. I recall fondly the shirtless, tanned boys with song in their voice who paddled up to our boat on a misty morning after we had spent nearly a week at sea, and sold us bunches of bananas, fresh coconut, and papayas the size of a football. The boating life rarely tasted as good again as it did that day.

There is also the tranquility of Hawai’i, then and now, where time moves more slowly and the beauty (and bounty) of tropical flowers and fauna, honeyed pineapple and passion fruit stain each delicious moment. How sweet life can be when you least expect it.

For a year when my kids were young, I lived in a mountaintop orchard, with a view of both lavender hills and crystalline sea, a placid and yet lusty refuge scattered with ethereal quince and heirloom apple trees, horses and goats, and a whole narrative to explore around the poetics of place. This land flourished recklessly in all its shrieking glory, cradling our life in the seasons, and bringing us that much closer to paradise. A jumble of roses, plum trees, citrus, loquats and pomegranate paired with a one- room cabin framed our world back then, painting an Arcadian scene in an otherwise tangled story. By then it was just the three of us-eating, sleeping and breathing each other, at once lonely and content, fragile and beautiful.

- A companion story to Plum Gorgeous: Recipes and Memories from the Orchard

Honey-lime Peaches with Crème Fraîche Clouds
Serves 4-6

A breezy, refreshing dessert combining summer peaches with late-season Kadota figs, treasured for their honey-like taste. Use any flavorful peach with robust flavor, like Sun Crest, and marinate for at least 2 hours or up to overnight before serving with a floating cloud of lightly sweetened cream or Crème Fraîche Ice Cream (page 150). This is also a fine way to prepare mango slices, dressed up with fresh passion fruit and raspberries.

2/3 cup light-colored honey, like orange blossom honey from California Grated zest of 1 orange Grated zest of 1 lime 1/2 cup fresh lime juice 1 cinnamon stick 3 peaches, peeled, pitted and sliced 1 vanilla bean, split lengthwise 1/2 cup heavy cream 1/2 cup crème fraîche Confectioners’ sugar, for dusting About 6 Kadota or other green figs, quartered Additional lime zest, or slivered mint leaves, for garnish

Combine the honey, orange zest, lime zest, lime juice, cinnamon stick and 2 tablespoons water in a medium saucepot; bring to a boil and simmer until syrupy, about 5 minutes. Let cool. Strain over the sliced peaches in a bowl. Add the vanilla bean, cover, and marinate for several hours in the refrigerator. Just before serving, whip the cream to soft peaks, and then fold into the crème fraîche, dusting with confectioners’ sugar to taste. Arrange the marinated peach slices and figs in shallow bowls and add enough syrup to barely cover. Top each serving with a cloud of whipped crème fraîche. Garnish with more lime zest or mint leaves.

-From Plum Gorgeous: Recipes and Memories from the Orchard by Romney Steele/Andrews McMeel Publishing

Grilled Sardines with Preserved Lemon Gremolata
Serves 4-6

Savor the flavors of the Mediterranean in late summer, when sardines are plentiful and enjoying a meal al fresco is a must. It’s best to enjoy these oily little fish with your fingers, removing the bones as you eat and not giving a darn about how you might look in the process. Gremolata is an Italian condiment typically made with lemon zest, garlic and parsley; the cilantro and preserved lemon here give it added zeal. Made without the currants and bread crumbs, it is delicious on steak.

1-1/2 to 2 pounds fresh sardines, cleaned and gutted Sea salt and freshly ground black pepper Preserved Lemon Gremolata:

Leaves from 1/2 bunch parsley, coarsely chopped Leaves from 1/2 bunch cilantro, coarsely chopped 1/2 cup toasted coarse bread crumbs 2 pieces Preserved Lemons (recipe follows), finely diced 3 tablespoons currants, plumped in hot water 2 cloves garlic, minced 1 shallot, finely chopped Finely grated zest of 1 lemon Olive oil, for drizzling and brushing

Season the sardines on both sides with salt and pepper. Leave at room temperature while you prepare the gremolata.

To make the gremolata, combine the herbs, bread crumbs, preserved lemon, currants, garlic, shallot, and lemon zest in a small bowl. Drizzle with olive oil, just enough to moisten.

Heat a grill pan or outdoor grill to medium-hot. Brush the sardines on both sides with olive oil. Grill for 2 to 3 minutes per side, until just cooked through. Arrange on a platter and scatter with the gremolata. Grind fresh black pepper over the top and serve.

Preserved Lemons
Makes 1 quart

Preserved lemon is a common North African condiment and something I learned to make from my stepmother, Elena, who grew up in the Mediterranean. The lemons are traditionally quartered partway, leaving the stem intact, then stuffed with salt and covered with lemon juice to preserve. Over the years, I have taken to cutting the lemons all the way through (or occasionally slicing into rounds, as in the alternate method below) and instead layering the salt and spices. Either way, it takes a good three weeks or longer for them to cure. Slivers of salty rind are delicious stirred through couscous, beans and grains or added to olives. Chopped, they add a zing to dressings, gremolata and meaty dishes.

8 organic or unsprayed lemons,
preferably thin-skinned
Kosher salt or coarse sea salt
1 or 2 bay leaves 1 cinnamon stick
1 dried chili, crushed or whole
1/2 teaspoon black peppercorns
Fresh lemon juice Olive oil

Wash the lemons well and pat dry. Quarter lengthwise and toss vigorously in a bowl with about 1/2 cup salt to coat. Pack the lemons tightly in a sterilized quart jar, layering as you go with the bay leaves, cinnamon, chili, peppercorns, and any residual salt and juice. Add enough lemon juice to fill about half the jar. Cover and set aside in a warm place. Shake once a day or so for three days, to help release the juices. Add more lemon juice, this time enough to fully cover the lemons. This is very important. Pour a thin slick of olive oil over the top. If you like, you can also place a round of parchment on top, to help keep the lemons submerged. Cover and place in a dark cupboard or cool area of the kitchen. They are usually ready in about a month-the rinds will be quite tender and the salt completely dissolved-sometimes a little longer. They usually get better with age.

-From Plum Gorgeous: Recipes and Memories from the Orchard by Romney Steele/Andrews McMeel Publishing

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• Mastrascusa and Wilson's whirlwind trip took them to Santa Barbara, Tuscany and Puglia. The result: fresh new Beach Tree menu items inspired by their spring tours.
• Photo By Fern Gavelek
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Beach Tree’s Bold New Menu is the Product of One Excellent Adventure

Photography By Don Riddle

Discoveries made on a spring culinary road trip have inspired new menu items and a bolstered food and wine program at the Beach Tree. The open-air, seaside restaurant at Four Seasons Resort Hualalai is pouring a host of new wines to complement culinary ideas freshly plucked from California and the Italian countryside.

Chef Nick Mastrascusa and restaurant manager Chuck Wilson are behind all the fun. Known as the “dynamic duo” of Beach Tree-Nick focuses on food while Chuck oversees the wine list and operations-the men took a 12-day tour in April that began on California’s Central Coast and continued on to Italy. Dubbed “Nick and Chuck’s Excellent Adventure,” the whirlwind excursion provided a wealth of ideas on ingredients and menu ideas, grapes and varietals, and cooking and serving styles.

After sampling the vintages of Palmina Winery in Santa Barbara, which cultivates Italian grapes to produce a wine authentic in Northern Italian character and terroir, Nick and Chuck visited sunny Tuscany, touring and tasting the Frescobaldi vineyards and the 17th century wine cellar of Antinori’s Tignanello Estate. It was dinner at Osteria de Passignano, next to an ancient monastery, that inspired Beach Tree’s new Papardelle al Cinghiale-a savory dish of homemade pasta, local boar ragout, fresh peas and mint.

“It’s a classic Tuscan dish, Big Island style,” explains Chef Nick, who has family roots in Sicily.

“Italian food is made true to each region’s fresh ingredients, wine, people and the season,” he continues. “We do it here with our ingredients, exactly the same. We could refine this and that, but this is how it’s done there.”

Another trip-inspired menu item is freshly baked bread served with homemade ricotta cheese topped with exquisite olive oil. “It’s simple, delicate and the cheese is made from fresh Big Island milk,” shares Chef. The duo enjoyed this unpretentious, yet delicious repast amid plenty of hospitality in Puglia, located in the heel of Italy, where whitewashed limestone buildings, dating from the Middle Ages, dot the countryside.

And what about the wines? Chuck says Beach Tree is offering five varietals from Palmina by the glass and select Tuscan wines like Antinori’s Guado Al Tasso Vermentino.

Based on their travels, Beach Tree is also presenting an August food and wine promo. The first week showcases the fresh style of California cuisine paired with Palmina’s wines. Next up is a week highlighting traditional Tuscan food-with hearty, yet simple dishes of grilled or braised game. The food of Puglia is the focus of the third week, where diners can enjoy “delectable sauces and fresh- made pastas.”

Throughout the month, A Chef’s Table is available for parties of eight to 12. It replicates the home-style Italian dining experience of food brought in waves to the table without a menu. Beginning with antipasto, Italian for “before the meal,” you’ll sample a selection of cheeses and salami; then fresh breads; homemade pastas; grilled meats and fish-followed by desserts.

“We fell in love with this dining concept,” notes Chuck. “It’s the true essence of genuine hospitality… and hospitality is what Beach Tree is all about.”

• The cuisine at the Taj Lake Palace in Udaipur, India. Photos courtesy Peggy Markel's Culinary Adventures.
• The wood-fired kitchen at the Taj Lake Palace in Udaipur, India. Photos courtesy Peggy Markel's Culinary Adventures.
• Markel, taking in the sights of India. Photos courtesy Peggy Markel's Culinary Adventures.
• In the kitchen, guests learn not only about food, but about each country's culture. Photos courtesy Peggy Markel's Culinary Adventures.
• Photos courtesy Peggy Markel's Culinary Adventures.
• Photos courtesy Peggy Markel's Culinary Adventures.

A Foodie Philosopher Shares One Dish at a Time

Imagine having the opportunity to taste bread that was baked in a traditional tachelhit clay oven after a day of shopping in Morocco. Or perhaps breakfast at a 100-acre family farm in India is more your speed. There’s always the almond-olive oil cake nibbled while touring the Casa Ana mountains of Spain; and don’t forget the fresh ricotta paired with just-picked fruit from an orchard in Amalfi, Italy.

The exploration of senses unearthed during one of Peggy Markel’s Culinary Adventures reveals the rich (and palatable) landscape of the world’s most storied culinary destinations.

For the past 17 years, Markel has played host to many adventures that introduce participants to the richness hidden beyond city borders-and the ubiquitous restaurants mentioned in every travel guide. She connects cuisine, culture and lifestyle through small group tours in Tuscany, Sicily, Amalfi, Morocco, India and Spain.

“Peggy’s particular attention and talent to hosting dramatically affects the experience of her guests,” says Merete Mueller, a booking coordinator employed by Markel. “Imagine finding yourself at the most satisfying dinner party-exquisite food, a luxurious but relaxed atmosphere, interesting people and meaningful and light- hearted conversation. Peggy’s trips are like this, but for an entire week, punctuated by cooking classes and new experiences, plus some personal time relaxing by the pool, walking in the mountains, or laying on the deck of a boat.”

Markel’s culinary adventure began in Tuscany, which she first visited in 1987.

“I was drawn to Tuscany and felt a deep connection to the landscape-especially Florence,” says Markel. “Refined and rustic, just like the people, food is practically the religion, as is superb wine making. There is a certain character to the Florentine and his or her way of expressing themselves through food, as an artisan, farmer or chef that inspires us to appreciate food in a more refined way. Not in front of a computer, not in a car, nor on a couch, but at a well-set table that welcomes the muse.”

In the late ’90s, Elba was the next locale Markel explored; rustic Tuscan cooking sessions came next, followed by “Sicily: A Different Italy” in 1998.

“Sicily has been somewhat of an unexplored black sheep of Italy, and I was curious about what it was hiding,” says Markel.

“Thanks to ancient Arab influence, it is teeming with olive and almond groves, citrus groves, biblical fruit trees like pomegranate, carob and fig. And the interior is full of succulent lamb while the coasts boast formidable deep-sea fish, like tuna and swordfish. The island has influence from the Phoenicians, Greeks and nearby North Africa, giving a sneak preview of spice, couscous and the addition of pine nuts and raisins in their tomato sauces.”

Markel’s attraction to Morocco’s color and texture of its culture and flavor resulted in her “Feast for the Senses” tour that launched in 2001. And in 2007, “Amalfi: Slow Sailing” and “Savoring the Amalfi Coast” were added as a seafaring culinary experience.

“For several years I had visited the Amalfi coast, never quite finding the recipe for a program until I experienced it by sailboat,” she adds. “Then, it was the outlying islands that stole my heart. Spending time with local captains, visiting small markets and visiting fisherman right on the boat was an unadulterated experience. The natural elements of sun, sea and wind play an exciting role in the Mediterranean not to be missed.”

An invitation by Asia Transpacific Journeys to lead a passage to India led to Markel’s latest culinary adventure, “India: Tasting Royal Rajasthan.”

She found kinship with the Slow Food movement in 1993, recognizing in it values that echoed her own, such as reorienting our relationship to food and its production.

“A relationship to food is knowing where it comes from and what to do with it,” she says. “The result feeds people and brings them together to tell stories and talk to each other. As I traveled around the world, I saw how every country eats what grows around them. It becomes a national identity, forming their cultural diversity.”

Markel’s next adventures are Oct. 12-20 to Tuscany, Oct. 21-28 to Spain, Nov. 6-15 to Morocco, Feb. 5-17 to India and March 18-27 to Morocco.

Operating with the philosophy that “A connection to real food is a connection to life,” Markel has truly seen the impact one of her tours can have on participants.

“I love doing these tours because I think they are of some benefit. I’ve watched these programs change people’s lives. They see how other cultures live and get clues on how to shape their own lives a bit closer to the bone-that is, with balance, beauty and taste. Not to mention a bit more understanding for cultures and others they knew nothing about.”

For more info, visit www.peggymarkel.com.

• The legendary greystone building, the West Coast home of CIA. Photos courtesy The Culinary Institute of America at Greystone.
• Photos courtesy The Culinary Institute of America at Greystone.
• Photos courtesy The Culinary Institute of America at Greystone.
• Photos courtesy The Culinary Institute of America at Greystone.
• The campus has shops and restaurants open to the public; those wanting "more" can enroll in weekend or weeklong crash courses. Photos courtesy The Culinary Institute of America at Greystone.
• Photos courtesy The Culinary Institute of America at Greystone.

Weekends at the Culinary Institute of America

For the food and wine enthusiast, Napa Valley is our nearest nirvana. Due north of San Francisco’s Golden Gate, the valley is surrounded by breathtaking vistas, colorful characters, majestic vineyards and prestigious wineries that grace the landscape.

Furthermore, it’s no surprise that The Culinary Institute of America (CIA) chose the picture-perfect Greystone for its West Coast outpost. Regarded as the world’s premier culinary college since its inception nearly a century ago (the main headquarters can be found along the Hudson River in Hyde Park, N.Y.), those who set foot on this westerly campus can quickly immerse themselves in an eclectic culinary world influenced slightly less by Europe and the Big Apple than its oenophilic brethren.

And while the campus offers an array of programs for those already involved in (or delving headlong into) the professional food industries, mere culinary aficionados from across the globe have opportunities to partake in select Greystone offerings.

Once here, guests are afforded the opportunity to cook in professionally equipped kitchens, participate in lectures and demos, endure tastings and even bolster their knowledge of wine.

“CIA Samplings include wine explorations, weekend demonstrations and classes for the sophisticated palate,” says Tyffani Peters, CIA Greystone’s media specialist. “The concept behind these programs, which began two years ago, is to give people who have an interest in food and wine-and want to learn more-a chance to learn some fun things while they’re visiting without having to enroll in a professional program.”

According to Peters, CIA Samplings is a two- hour hands-on cooking class that transports students on a cultural culinary journey. These include creating dishes inspired by Spain, Asia, Africa, Italy and even Napa Valley itself.

Classes are taught by CIA chef instructors who teach students techniques that allow them to re-create masterpieces in the comfort of their own kitchen.

For those looking to develop their affinity for wine, CIA wine experts will offer “Wine Explorations” seminars which, at just two hours per session, can make for an ideal “add-on” to a day of wine tasting in the region. Participants will have the chance to take part in discussions during wine tastings, within the campus’ state- of-the art wine tasting facilities.

Those with slightly more time on their hands can take advantage of CIA at Greystone’s weekend sessions. Renowned regional chefs and instructors will demonstrate recipes reflective of the seasonal flavors of Napa, and reveal which wines work best with them.

“Our programs have been very popular,” Peters states. “You really need to book ahead before attending one of our enthusiast classes.”

Two-day ($1,995) and one-day ($495) sessions are limited to 12 participants (of all cooking levels and interests).

Led by Chef John Ash, CIA experts will introduce participants to new cuisines, ingredients and cooking techniques, all the while enjoying the company of fellow food aficionados.

CIA’s newly branded “Boot Camp” ($2,095) is a five-day program that has seen aspiring chefs, doctors, lawyers and working mothers as attendees. Call it a learning vacation for your appetite.

“Food enthusiast programs are what I like to call ‘edutainment,’” Peters says. “What better souvenir to bring home than some new cooking or wine tasting skills that you can use again and again, and impress all of your friends?”

Regardless of the length of time you decide to spend at Greystone, no visit would be complete without the dining experience as it unfolds at the campus’ Ivy Award-winning eatery, The Wine Spectator Greystone Restaurant. Whether for lunch or dinner (it’s open every day), the dance that melds impeccable service with Mediterranean-style fare, an open kitchen and views of the gently rolling Napa hillsides is an incomparable outro.

For more information on The Culinary Institute of America, Greystone and its food enthusiasts programs, visit www.ciachef.edu/enthusiasts/weekends.

• Hawaii Island retreat's maluhia spa features a salt-purified infinity pool.
• The retreat harkens back to the grace of a bygone era, while incorporating of-the-moment luxuries and green features.
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• While grand, there is nothing grandiose about this retreat. great value is placed on the spirituality of the land upon which it sits.
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Finding a Spiritual Connection in Hawi

Sometimes, you need more than a vacation. You need a retreat. The dictionary defines this as a departure, to pull away or retire. In Hawi on the Big Island, you’ll find an oasis perched on a cliff overlooking the Pacific that is indeed the perfect place to retire from the world.

Hawai’i Island Retreat at Ahu Pohaku Ho’omaluhia is exactly what its name describes. Owner and creator Jeanne Sunderland explains, “‘ahu’ means ‘gathering place’ or ‘altar’; ‘pohaku’ means ‘great stones’ (there are great healing stones on the property) and ‘ho’omaluhia’ means ‘bringing forth peacefulness.’”

That peacefulness permeates every room, treatment, even blade of grass at the retreat.

Built like a manse to accommodate the most persnickety of luxury seekers, the suites are appointed with turn-of-the-century Hawaiian furniture, spacious bathroom with soaking tub and separate shower. Guests can gaze upon the garden, ocean or valley from their own private balcony.

Hawai’i Island Retreat’s rooms are designed as “guest sanctuaries,” and you won’t find modern distractions. “We don’t have TVs, Internet access or telephones in the room,” Sunderland points out. “But our guests want things that way. They want to get away from those interruptions when they’re with us.” For those who can’t totally disconnect, phones are available in a common area, TVs are in the media room and Internet access is available on the lanai.

Nowhere is the understated opulence of this place more apparent than in the Golden Penthouse. Also known as the honeymoon suite, this romantic room overlooking the ocean takes up the entire third floor and features a claw-foot tub-the perfect place to daydream over the Pacific.

Sunderland recalls the day she first stepped foot on the land on which her retreat now stands. She’d been studying under la’au lapa’au master Tommy Soloman, who brought her to this mysterious spot one day. “We came in from the ocean on his fishing boat,” she reminisces. “After walking around, he showed me a canoe house, which he said was Kamehameha’s canoe house. I asked him, ‘why are you bringing me here?’ He said, ‘I was told to bring you here.’”

Decades later, Sunderland opened her Hawai’i Island Retreat on that very same land. The power that she felt there distinctly spoke to her, and when it came time to share her knowledge of healing, she knew that was the ideal spot to do so.

With respect to the surroundings, she and her husband, Dr. Robert Watkins, cleared the land by hand. They, along with their son Damien, have made sure that everything at the retreat is sustainable. “We all talk about being sustainable … none of us realize what that’s going to take,” Sunderland says. “Thank goodness we have Damien, because he takes care of all that. The retreat is completely off the grid: We produce our own electricity, have our own well, raise our own meat, raise milk goats. Our produce comes from our organic gardens and orchards.”

Rejuvination is the purpose of this place, and while spiritual healing can come from just being somewhere serene, Hawai’i Island Retreat can help gently prod the process along.

Spa treatments have been a part of the retreat from Day One, as many guests come for the classes and treatments. Because of this it made sense to add a separate spa complex called Maluhia Spa. Here, guests can luxuriate in open-air hales overlooking a valley of ironwood trees, go for a refreshing dip in a saltwater-purified infinity pool or work on their cardio at the spa/exercise pavilion. Eco-friendly locker rooms are appointed with organic shower products, reverse-osmosis drinking water and solar hot water.

The retreat follows three treatment pathways to well-being: Ho’oku’u focuses on cleansing, soothing and detoxifying; ku’ulani hones in on harmonizing, balancing through couples massage, while kuakino is the “path of transformation for body mind and spirit.” The spa menu is divided along these lines.

Services include couples massage, facials and the decadent bath rituals. Many of the treatments use elixirs developed within the Hawai’i Island Retreat. These also are available for sale, so guests can take home some of their spa experience.

Of course, with a focus on wellness, it stands to reason that the retreat’s cuisine would follow suit.

All meals are sourced from the land. “We do still buy rice, because it’s hard to get away from rice,” she adds with a laugh. “But we’re producing amaranth.”

The menus read like a dream-come-true for those who’ve always wished they could dine on healthful, delicious foods.

Breakfast might feature granola and yogurt, fresh fruit (think seasonal mango, banana, papaya, oranges, starfruit) along with fresh eggs and garden greens. Lunch is a light yet satisfying meal of a salad, soup du jour or curried chicken breast. A sample dinner might include curry squash soup, garam marsala spiced baked chicken and a dessert of coconut crème brulee, as an example.

Chef Mo Elebkkaoui works constantly to keep the menu fresh, and often ventures off-property to find new and different dishes to interpret in his kitchen. Guests can take a bit of the knowledge home with them by taking a spa cooking class.

The retreat has become a beautiful home away from home for many repeat guests. In fact, the two-day minimum stay was instituted only after past visitors had told Sunderland that anything less would rob someone of the true beauty of the retreat. Sunderland’s creation is the perfect place to “pull away” from the rest of the world: Whether it’s to serve as home base while you explore the little nooks and crannies of North Kohala or a respite to detoxify your life from modern day concerns.

www.hawaiiislandretreat.com

• The santa barbara mission is a gracious landmark. Photo courtesy Santa Barbara CVB.
• Quiet moments on butterfly beach. Photo by Sinclair courtesy Santa Barbara CVB.
• The stonehouse's menu highlights the restaurant's vegetable garden. Photo courtesy San Ysidro Ranch
• The Lily pond at san Ysidro ranch.
• Fresh seafood and produce are just two reasons Santa Barbara is a foodie's dream. Photo courtesy Santa Barbara CVB.
• Fresh seafood and produce are just two reasons Santa Barbara is a foodie's dream. Photo courtesy Santa Barbara CVB.
• Art, in all its hues and forms, abounds in this seaside city dubbed "The American Riviera."

Spanish Style on the California Coastline

By Bekah Wright

Round a certain curve on Highway 101 and suddenly dramatic cliffs hug a stretch of beach slicked by the Pacific Ocean. With beauty such as this, it’s easy to understand how Santa Barbara gained the moniker “The American Riviera.” Why leave Hawai’i's paradise for another seaside locale? Those who have can affirm that beyond the breathtaking landscape is a town ripe with distinctive accommodations, diverse cuisine, endless shopping and a cultural scene that will put visitors in a Santa Barbara state of mind.

ON THE BEACH

The beachside Coral Casino Beach and Cabana Club is a private membership club built in 1937 that boasts a 50-meter pool and rows of private cabanas facing the Pacific. Perhaps no place embodies classic California than the power-lunching social set who hunker down at the Coral Café and Bar. Those slowing to the sunset pace scuttle up to Tydes for Mediterranean fare prepared by all-star chef Nick Barainca. When guests aren’t whiling away the hours on the putting green, croquet lawn or tennis court, they can endure an avocado-citrus body wrap at The Spa. A moonlit walk on the beach is the perfect way to end any day.

Golf fans itching to hit Santa Barbara’s fairways have an array of offerings. The 18-hole, Pacific Ocean skirting championship course at The Sandpiper Golf Course is austere; a different vista can be found at Rancho San Marcos Golf Course, where the Robert Trent Jones, Jr.-designed 18-hole championship course is set along the San Marcos Stagecoach Trail and spotlights Lake Cachuma, the Santa Ynez River and Santa Ynez Mountains. Max Behr’s private Montecito Country Club is another stunner.

As night falls, travelers can revel in the jasmine-tinged air with a walk to Bella Vista Restaurant. Al fresco dining comes in the form of a retractable glass ceiling, with trickling fountains and a double- sided fireplaces (and heated floors) that spill onto a terrace that’s just right for lingering over a meal of regional cuisine prepared by executive chef Allesandro Cartumini. Top off the evening with a nightcap at the Biltmore’s sleek Ty Lounge. Back at a cottage suite, a fire awaits and heavenly scented bedding beckons. Signaling the end of the day: the whistle of the Coast Starlight train as it makes its nightly journey.

With Butterfly Beach at its front door and the Santa Ynez Mountains serving as a backdrop, bunk down at the Four Seasons Resort The Biltmore Santa Barbara. The 80-year-old Spanish Colonial resort counts among its numerous guestrooms 12 cottages, which help invoke “old California” romance. Graceful fountains, ornamental ironwork, gas lanterns and brick walkways also meander through the lushly landscaped 20-acre property.

HILLSIDE ROMANCE

Tucked away in the Santa Barbara enclave of Montecito is a sweet set of 41 cottages with quite a history-San Ysidro Ranch. Over the years, many a luminary has driven up SYR’s brick drive, among them, honeymooners Jacqueline and John F. Kennedy.

Getting unpacked may be delayed as SYR’s multitude of gardens call for exploring. Roses scent the air as visitors wander up to a pergola where a statue of Saint Ysidro keeps watch over the grounds. A bit farther is the vegetable garden with its fig and citrus trees. Though it may be hard to tear the senses away from nature’s bounty, by merely turning around and facing the opposite direction, it’s possible to take in views of the ocean.

Equally as inviting as the grounds are the accommodations. Each cottage has been lovingly decorated by the owners. That being said, “ownership” is given over to guests (and their pets) during a stay, with luscious beds that call for post-wine tasting afternoon naps and outdoor areas that teem with the sounds of a stream.

The resort’s two restaurants are nothing short of a culinary experience. The Stonehouse as well as Plow and Angel are both helmed by executive chef Jamie West. At The Stonehouse, West serves up dishes complemented by ingredients from the vegetable garden, like the “Parmesan Crusted Halibut” accompanied by gnocchetti, artichoke, confit tomatoes, olives and pesto. Upscale comfort food takes center stage at the Plow and Angel. Not to be missed-the Angus burger. A romantic, private dinner for two can be had fireside in the historic Old Adobe House built in 1825.

Those guests seeking recreation can head up toward SYR’s swimming pool. On the way to the lounging deck there’s an area for playing horseshoes, bocce ball and croquet. If the urge to golf is piqued, guests can use the same golf courses as those at The Biltmore, a sister property to SYR. Workout buffs can stop at the open-air pagoda to hop on an elliptical. Perhaps a more inviting option are the 500-acre property’s 17 miles of hiking trails. Or, better yet, a precursor to a nap by way of an in-room spa service.

ABOUT TOWN

A great way to catch sunrise is via the three-mile bike path that stretches along the shore. Kick things off at East Beach Grill with a breakfast of blueberry wheat germ pancakes. Also near the waterfront is The Funk Zone. Once a 19th century industrial and manufacturing hub, the facility now houses studios and galleries of local artisans from glassblowers to surfboard shapers.

Stop by Segway of Santa Barbara to schedule a sunset tour for watching surfers catch their last waves of the day from Leadbetter Beach. While in the neighborhood, pay a visit to the Urban Wine Trail, where 12 local wineries offer tastings of wine produced in Santa Barbara County.

Saturday means it’s time to head to Santa Barbara Harbor to attend the Fisherman’s Market, where the day’s catch can be bought directly off the boat. To boot, a farmers market downtown draws quite the who’s who. Grab a coffee from Our Daily Bread bakery, then pop into C’est Cheese to purchase Midnight Moon goat cheese before scouring stands of organic fruits and vegetables. A definite for dessert: cupcakes from Crushcakes.

Strolling through downtown Santa Barbara is a pastime in itself. Perfect for architecture and shopping buffs is the self-guided, 12-block Red Tile Walking Tour of historic landmarks. The tour begins at the Spanish-Moorish style Santa Barbara County Courthouse, where a climb to the top of the 85-foot tall “El Mirador” clock tour provides 360-degree views of the city, including that of the sunken gardens below. A portion of the route is on State Street, famous for its outstanding boutiques, galleries and home décor shops. A couple to keep on the radar: K. Frank and Diani.

Another shopping Mecca is Montecito’s Coast Village Road. Stop here en route to Lotusland, 37-acres of botanical gardens that were lovingly nurtured by Madame Ganna Walska. Advance reservations are required and guided tours are available.

AFTER DARK

Santa Barbara nightlife doesn’t wait for the weekend to kick into high gear. Area restaurants are at the ready to fuel diners for evenings chock-full of entertainment. Some to catch include Julienne, Cadiz, Tupelo Junction Café and Wine Cask. Post-dinner, catch a show.

On Thursdays, State Street’s Cultural Arts District corridor’s museums and galleries open their doors to the public for “First Thursdays,” a free, monthly event. Part of the evening, the Santa Barbara Contemporary Arts Forum’s after hours “Forum Lounge” is a must. During summer months, Chase Palm Park hosts free Thursday night concerts. Mixing martinis and art are Santa Barbara Museum of Art’s “Nights,” held five times a year from May to September.

A hot spot for year-round performances is the restored Granada Theatre, home to The Santa Barbara Center for the Performing Arts (SBCPA). Here, theatergoers can take in performances of the Santa Barbara Symphony, State Street Ballet, Opera Santa Barbara and international touring groups.

Then again, an evening back at accommodations sitting outside and soaking in the night sky may be all that’s required for getting in a Santa Barbara state of mind.

• 
• 
• The look of the future Culinary Institute of the pacific, one of the beneficiaries of the Hawai'i Food & Wine Festival.
• 

This Fall’s Food & Wine Fête Has Much to Benefit

Returning Hawai’i to a sustainable ecosystem of agriculture, environment and economy is a buzz that has been going around for quite some time. Various agencies-utility companies, car dealerships, restaurants, retail shops and hotels- have all pondered (some with more success than others) ways to get on board with less of an impact, yet still remain viable.

By now, most readers will have heard about the Hawai’i Food & Wine Festival-the first time such an undertaking has been attempted in state. What few realize is the partnership that fell in place in order for it to happen, as well as exactly whom stands to benefit most from its success.

The unique partnership between the Hawai’i Agricultural Foundation and the Culinary, Hospitality and Tourism Department of Kapi’olani Community College (which is tied to the soon-to- be-branded Culinary Institute of the Pacific) should not only attract much-needed funding, but will open the eyes of future leaders in the culinary field. A bevy of top talent from both around Hawai’i, as well as (truly impressive) stars from abroad will descend upon Hawai’i for the Sept. 29 – Oct. 1, 2011 event.

Hailing from various Asian countries, Australia, Canada and the U.S., these include: Vikram Garg (Halekulani), Hubert Keller (San Francisco), Yoshihiro Murata (Kyoto, Japan), Tetsuya Wakuda (Sydney, Australia), Alessandro Stratta (Las Vegas), Edward Kwon (Seoul, Korea), Susur Lee (Toronto, Canada), Celestrino Drago (L.A.), Rick Moonen (Las Vegas), Chef Mavro (Honolulu) and Michael Gino (New York). Marcel Vigneron, the controversial Top Chef contender, will give a demo. The owners of Hudson Valley Foie Gras will be in attendance. The list goes on and on.

Three days and three major events will range from a sit-down, chef’s tasting dinner at the Halekulani hotel, to a street fair-like party at the Waikiki Edition capped with a “Grand Tasting” event at Hilton Hawaiian Village, this will be the ultimate in food and wine pairings for discriminating culinarians.

Chef partners Alan Wong and Roy Yamaguchi, who are aiding in the organization and marketing, are no strangers to raising funds for the food arts. According to Culinary Institute of the Pacific (CIP) director Conrad Nonaka, the partners came together-this time-with the people of Hawai’i in mind.

“Alan Wong and Roy [Yamaguchi] are our honorary co-chairs for fundraising, and have been for the last 10 years. Roy works close with Hawai’i State Ag Foundation [run by Dean Okimoto] in doing an annual event to benefit farmers. [He] wanted to take that level of what they do at the restaurant, add more chefs, and make it benefit all of Hawai’i,” Nonaka shares.

“We’re committed to doing this festival for the next five years,” says Okimoto, who will be working with his farm and other farmers to source produce for the three days of events.

Something Okimoto learned early on in the development phase of this project was the wide array of people who will find interest in it. Okimoto points to his 22-year- old daughter, Leigh, who is “really excited about the ‘Streets of Asia: Morimoto and Friends’ event at the Edition. It’s perfect for the young, hip crowd,” he adds, noting the importance of getting the idea of sustainable farming to a younger generation. The “Master Chefs Gala Dinner” (tickets are $1,000 per person) at Halekulani is the event he’s looking forward to. He knows Alessandro Stratta, and is extremely excited to meet and taste the food from Hubert Keller.

Part of that vision is raising $40 million to develop the nearly 8 acres of space on Diamond Head where the new CIP will be located. In the meantime, says Nonaka, the event will benefit Hawai’i tourism and the hotels, by creating a world-class party during what is called a “shoulder,” or soft, season.

“This event could be the next Aspen, or South Beach food and wine festival,” says Nonaka. “Look at what that has done for those communities.”

Another goal of the program is to attract Asian visitors, in hopes that the trickle down leads to more enrollment at CIP from those regions.

“We have links to universities in Vietnam, Singapore, Thailand, China and Japan. If we can strengthen that bond and attract those students, it’s not only a value to their country, but to Hawai’i. It will spread our talent as well as flavors,” Nonaka adds, mentioning that although the current plans aren’t to have the facility ready until 2015, the first 16 students will enter the new program this fall.

For Okimoto, trying to establish an ‘ag in the classroom program’ with the Hawaii Farm Bureau is the goal.

“We want to get farmers in the classrooms, and also educate the public about what’s going on in the ag industry. We want to show people that we need to balance our resources, and maybe, develop some new farmers.”

He adds that for farmers like him, it’s important to show the young chefs that Hawai’i can grow local produce that can shine. “We have no better marketers than the chefs who use our produce.”

Fall Fragrances Get Fresh

A change in seasons is easily marked by the scents in the air. Soon, the fragrances of pumpkin, vanilla, caramel apples, cranberries, citrus and spices will fill homes and kitchens, triggering memories of seasons and holidays past.

Those sentiments need not be limited to the table. Warming the heart and spirit seems to be the theme of this fall’s fragrances. Just a spritz or two can help set the mood for a variety of occasions, whether you’re planning a festive soiree or a romantic evening just for two.

For Women

Prada Infusion de Rose Eau de Parfum: Sweet, playful and sublime, with the scent of rose petals mingling with tea, roses, honey, Italian mandarin and refreshing peppermint.

David Yurman Fresh Essence: A vivid shade of green, inspired by the peridot gemstone, characterizes this fruity blend of apple, cassis and juicy red fruits, with notes of cedar and musk.

Laura Mercier Crème Brulée Eau Gourmande: A delicate and sophisticated fragrance that captures the essence of warm caramel, spun sugar, French vanilla beans and white musk. If this is too sweet to handle, other scents in the Eau Gourmande series include Pistachio (pictured), Fresh Fig and Almond Coconut.

Jo Malone Nectarine Blossom & Honey: This mouth- watering fragrance is a delicious blend of ripe nectarine and peach sorbet with hints of plum, black currant and acacia honey.

Womanity by Thierry Mugler: The Paris designer mixes sweet with savory in an engaging scent built around fig fruit, caviar and roses.

Kate Spade New York Twirl: Created for colorful days and cocktail fetes, Twirl combines notes of mandarin, pink pepper, berries, white peach, watermelon, orange blossoms, tiare flower, amber, musk and macaroon.

For Men

Orange Sanguine Cologne Absolue: Sensual and energizing, this concentrated cologne has top notes of bitter and blood oranges tempered with jasmine and geranium, while base notes of amber and sandalwood root it to earth.

Guilty Pour Homme: A cocktail of Italian lemon and mandarin with fresh lavender and the punch of pink pepper for the young and fearless.

MJ Bang: Straightforward and unapologetic, this is an explosive blend of pepper and spice wrapped in warm, sensual wood scents.

Versace Man Eau Fraiche: A modern and confident scent with top notes of lemon, bergamot, rosewood and rose, heart notes of cedar, tarragon, sage and base notes of amber, musk and saffron.

Van Cleef & Arpels Midnight in Paris: The excitement and sensuality of one of the most romantic cities in the world is summed up in sparkling zests of lemon and bergamot, with lily of the valley and the warmth of tonka beans.

A rose is just a rose…

There are many emotions that a dozen roses evoke: joy, surprise and love among them. No matter what, the feelings are good ones.

And, much like those blooms, A Dozen Roses wants to provide just the right fragrance for every mood.

New to Neiman Marcus, you can find A Dozen Roses in unique scents: Shakespeare in Love for the hopeless romantic, Gold Rush for the sexy and adventurous woman up for any- thing, and Iced White for the A-type personal- ity poised to break through glass ceilings.

The fragrances’ bottles harken back to the perfumery days of old. Each features original lacquered artwork on the front and back.

Reflexology is the Answer at One Honolulu Spa

Within the serene Walls of most spas, a typical masseur will delve straight into kneading muscles in “trouble” areas in order to help release tensions and toxins trapped within their client’s tissue.

However, reflexologists attest that the way to ease many of these pains is from the ground up, literally. That is, through one’s feet.

The practice, for those unfamiliar, dates back to ancient medicine men, who mapped the expansively interconnected nature of the human body. Scrolls discovered in China and Japan bore charts of pressure points on the feet. Egypt’s Tomb of Ankhmahor, known as the “Physician’s Tomb,” housed one of the earliest known images associated with reflexology. Dating to 2330 B.C., they show individuals holding and massaging one another’s feet.

Although reflexology is widely practiced around the world, there are few practitioners in Hawai’i. Hence, Tomoko Otsuka (who opened her first reflexology salon, Foot Zone, in Shibuya, Japan, in 1996) decided to introduce the therapy to a wider audience by opening Oasis Spa near Ala Moana Center.

She trains all her therapists in techniques she learned in Taiwan from master reflexologist Lin Mei Getsu.

This is not a therapy for wimps: Practitioners use firm, deep pressure for results that extend throughout the body. According to general manager Yuki Willett, some clients tell them they feel the results right away, including relief from sinus problems, back and shoulder aches.

She said pain in other parts of the body also manifests in pain in the corresponding area of the foot. So someone with a headache may feel extra pain in the big toe, while someone with aching shoulders may feel pain just below the little toe.

Sessions start with a foot soak in warm water scented with aromatic oil. Individuals are offered herbal tea for relaxation, followed by reflexology using organic creams. A 60-minute massage covers 64 reflex zones.

Just as with a full-body massage, clients are advised to drink lots of water over the following 24 hours to help cleanse the body of uric and lactic acid released during the session.

Willett says that her services caught on quickly among those who travel frequently and are accustomed to seeing reflexology practitioners throughout Asia.

“They tell us they’d been looking for a place in Hawai’i to offer this, and that’s how they find us,” she says.

The spa is also popular with more modest spa enthusiast, as well as men, who (according to Willett) often don’t like the hassle of removing their clothes for a full-body massage, or having lotion and oils on their body.

“Here, they just take off their shoes and they can get a massage,” Willett adds.

For those who nevertheless prefer top-to-bottom treatment, they can finish their reflexology session with 10-, 20- or 30-minute shoulder, neck, hand or head massage that will unquestionably leave them feeling every bit addressed.

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Hot Gear to Drive You Into Fall

• The majesty that awaits clubbers at Pebble Beach.
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• Photo by Alex Vertikoff

Art Imitates Life at Pebble Beach

Photography By Joann Dost

Pebble beach Golf links hasn’t only been the site of golfing history. The course has served as a set for films such as National Velvet, The Ghost and Mrs. Muir and Rebecca. And, upon stepping to the first tee for the first time at Pebble Beach, I was indeed thinking about a movie rather than, say, Tiger Woods’ historic 15-shot triumph here at the 2000 U.S. Open. I was thinking about The Purple Rose of Cairo.

In Woody Allen’s comedy, an actor walks off the screen and into real life. As I put my tee in the ground, I felt I was walking out of real life and into a movie. The small crowd around the first tee were the silent extras, and I was the star. A star terrified he’d forget his lines and blow the opportunity of a lifetime. I needn’t have worried. In the end, as it surely always does, Pebble Beach stole the show. It is the show.

Another metaphor (or perhaps the channeled neurosis of Mr. Allen) arrived as I stood over my bogey putt on the opening green. (Pebble Beach often leaves one reaching for comparisons beyond golf.) Not for the first time in my life, I felt as though I were on a date in which I was out of my league. She’s so beautiful! So smart! Why is she here with me?

Because you’re paying for everything, I muttered to myself, right before I missed that putt. Now just enjoy her company, since odds are you won’t see her again.

The first three holes at Pebble Beach seem designed to ease you through the panicky period of hyperventilation brought on by the fact that I am playing Pebble Beach! Pebble! Me! They’re graceful, elegant and, it must be said, inland.

To follow the dating metaphor, as you walk up the fourth hole, with the Pacific Ocean shimmering to your right, well, you just can’t help it: You’re falling in love. It’s one-sided, yes, and fated to end, but you feel so alive. The salt air is like perfume. It’s making you light-headed. You’re hitting dopey shots, and smiling about it, googoo-eyed.

For people not well versed in the course-there may even be a golfer or two among this group, though that’s doubtful-Pebble Beach has several iconic holes that rank among the world’s greatest. For sheer punch-above-its-weightiness, it’s no contest: At just 106 yards, the teeny, terrifying 7th, playing straight downhill to a wee green fronting crashing Pacific Ocean surf, boasts the highest fame-to-length ratio in golf. I stood on that tee box, gap wedge in hand, bursting with anticipation, only mixed with an odd sensation: utter peace. On a perfect Monterey afternoon, at one of the most exquisite places on earth, I was playing a game I love in the company of a great friend. No metaphors cluttered my mind. This was just plain awesome.

My swing, if not precisely awesome, was smooth enough. The golf gods smiled benevolently, and my ball caught the left front corner of that wee green, burned the edge of the cup with my birdie putt and happily settled for a par anything but routine.

Which was good, because then I butchered the epic, chasm- spanning 8th.

In fact, I stunk up Pebble Beach. And the highest compliment I can pay it is that I couldn’t have cared less. Sure, my few good holes came on the most renowned ones. Really, though, I had briefly lived the dream. If it proved the only time, well, that’s enough. I’ll always have Pebble.

Darkness descended on my friend and I as we made our way up the final fairway. To the left, the Pacific was more easily heard than seen. Ditto the happy golfers murmuring and clinking glasses on the patio near the green. As the curtain of night fell, I knew I faced a return to reality-right after a beer in the famous Tap Room. I left on an up note beyond compare.

The Tap Room

If there is a more iconic 19th hole in golf than The Tap Room at The Lodge at Pebble Beach, it doesn’t leap to mind. Certainly it has location, location, location going for it, but that’s not the top draw. First and foremost is the history of the place, which can be absorbed by a deep breath in: The nostalgia and the salt air seeping in from outside make for a potent cocktail. Close your eyes and you can hear the conversations of old-the amaze- ment at Tom Watson’s 17th hole chip-in at the 1982 U.S. Open and Jack Nicklaus’ flagstick-rattling 1-iron on the same hole a decade earlier, the less-heroic feats of everyday players reliving their own highs and lows of the day. Open your eyes and you’re surrounded by amazing photographic evidence of the same filling the walls.

Plus, the food and drink are pretty damn good. California is artichoke country, and the artichoke soup here is justly famed, though it battles with the prime rib chili for starter supremacy. Foodies (or company credit card holders) might well opt for the American Kobe Filet Mignon, but after a round somehow The Tap Room Burger-1/2-pound of black Angus, pepper bacon, sharp Cheddar on a brioche bun, grilled in a high-intensity Montague Broiler-paired with a nice local microbrew seemed the epicu- rean equivalent of a tap-in birdie.

‘Ewa to Downtown in 3 Minutes

With some hypothetical coopera- tion from HPD and the closing of some O’ahu highways, your commute time at a top speed of 268 mph would certain- ly be substantially shortened. All you need is the fastest and most expen- sive sports car presently made-the Bugatti Veyron 16.4 Super Sport. For a mere $2.4 million you can acquire this 1,200-horsepower, 16-cylinder limited production (there were 40 made this year) super car. This version of Veyron has 199 more horsepower than earlier incarnations, which hopefully satisfied the troubled souls who complained 1,000 horsepower wasn’t enough to get their motor running.

All the glamorous high tech features are part of the package: a 7-speed Formula One-type super-quick shifting transmission tied into a very special all- wheel drive system. Carbon fiber parts are everywhere, which cut weight as well as strengthen the body. Oh, by the way, the special Michelin tires that sup- port this high-speed cost only $10,500 per tire. See you on the H-1.

Cruisers VS Rockets

In the motorcycle world there are generally two divisions: The bigger, heavier, chrome cruisers exempli- fied by Harley-Davidson, and the performance-oriented, lightweight, high RPM bikes like the Kawasakis.

The high end of each faction best contrasts the differences. A $40,000 Harley Screaming Eagle (with a full options package) was added to the line this year. Boasting a large, 110-cubic-inch engine (with no shortage of chrome) and packing 900 pounds, this bike is plenty fast on the straights-but it’s not designed to rip through corners. Cruising is its forte, with a six-speaker stereo (with iPod connectivity), a massive seat, and large saddlebags.

In contrast is the Kawasaki Ninja ZX series, which touts rocket ship performance. Weighing about 450 pounds, these bikes have a 1-liter high- tech powerplant tied to a six-speed transmission, impose a low stance and feature huge disc brakes. Built entirely for acceleration and cornering, the top speed is over 190 mph with a zero to 60 time of under 3 seconds.

Strap on the helmet and put on the leathers; you’re ready to race.